In 167 BC the Greek king of Syria set out to break the Jewish nation with a plate of pork, and the first man they put in front of it was a ninety-year-old scribe called Eleazar.
Antiochus IV had taken Jerusalem, set up an altar to Zeus in the Temple and had pigs sacrificed on it. Then he went after the people. Circumcision was banned. The Sabbath was banned. And Jews were to be made to eat pig in public, so the whole town could watch them stop being Jews.
Eleazar was one of the most respected teachers in the city. They forced his mouth open. He spat the meat out and walked to the rack.
The officials in charge had known him for years and offered him a way out. Bring your own meat, they whispered, something your law allows, and eat it as though it were the sacrifice. Nobody will know.
He refused. A man of ninety pretending to give in, he said, would teach every young Jew that Eleazar had gone over to the foreigners in his old age. They beat him to death.
The second book of Maccabees records it, followed by a mother made to watch her seven sons tortured one after another for the same refusal. Within months the countryside was in revolt, and within three years the rebels had the Temple back. Hanukkah still remembers it.
The taboo had a job, and germs had nothing to do with it. It was a border. The animal marked who belonged, and an empire that wanted to erase a people knew exactly which plate to use.
The border was already ancient. In the hill villages of the first Israelites, around 1100 BC, archaeologists find almost no pig bones. Down on the coast, in the cities of their enemies the Philistines, pig makes up between 5% and 18% of the bones. A people drew its frontier on the dinner table.
The law itself never mentions hygiene. Leviticus sorts animals with two tests: a split hoof, and chewing the cud. The pig has the hoof and fails the cud, so it is out. The camel chews the cud and has the wrong foot, so it is out too, along with the hare and the rock badger. Nobody has ever called a camel filthy. The list keeps the cud-chewers, the cattle, sheep and goats that made up a herdsman's fortune, and bans everything else.
The health excuse arrived more than 1,300 years after Eleazar, when Maimonides, a physician-rabbi in Cairo, decided the pig must be forbidden because it ate dirt. The worm that later made that sound scientific was first spotted in 1835, by a first-year medical student in London called James Paget, in the muscle of a body on the dissecting table. Nobody tied it to pork until 1860. Cattle carry tapeworm and anthrax, and nobody ever banned the cow.
Meanwhile half the world was built on the pig. The Greeks sacrificed it to Demeter. The emperor Aurelian put free pork on Rome's public dole. Every medieval cottager who could fatten a pig on acorns and scraps had a winter's meat that owed no lord anything.
And it earns its place now. Pork is the richest source of thiamine in the butcher's window, close to ten times what the same weight of beef carries. Thiamine is the vitamin your body uses to turn food into energy, and running short of it is how sailors living on polished white rice went down with beriberi. A 200g chop covers a full day's need.
Eleazar died rather than eat it, because a king was using it as a weapon.
Nobody is forcing a plate to your mouth today. Have the chop.
Mike