Sama Hoole X-berichten

The woman who taught Britain to cook on rations lived to 99, and the one thing she told the nation never to do was throw away the fat.

Marguerite Patten was 24 when the war started and had been cooking for her family since her father died when she was 12. The Ministry of Food hired her. Her job was to go out to the factory canteens and the market squares with a demonstration stove and show a tired country how to make a dinner out of what the ration book allowed.

Then she went on the wireless. The Kitchen Front, 5 minutes every morning after the news, with 7 million people listening. She was the voice that got a generation of mothers through the war.

Here is what she actually taught. Save every scrap of dripping and use it for everything. Render the fat off the bacon. Keep the bones for stock. Make the meat ration go round with suet puddings and pies. She loathed the whale meat the Ministry made her demonstrate, and said so for the rest of her life.

That generation came out of 14 years of rationing healthier than the one before it. The children were taller, the teeth were better, and nobody was fat.

After the war she became the first cook on British television and wrote 170 books that sold 17 million copies. She refused the words celebrity chef to the end. She was a home economist, she said, and would die one.

She died in 2015, aged 99, having outlived every diet fad of the century she had cooked through.

Her advice was never about restriction. It was that the fat is the food, and a country that pours it away is wasting the best part of the animal. She was right in 1942 and she is right now.



Mike
 
"Drinking milk is unnatural" is an argument made by people holding an oat latte, and it deserves a proper look.

The objection is that milk was made to feed a baby cow. Correct. Now apply it to the rest of the trolley.

A grain of wheat is the food supply packed for a baby wheat plant. You grind it up and call it toast.

A nut is the same arrangement for a baby tree. A bean is the same for a baby bean.

An egg was made for a baby chicken. Honey was made for baby bees.

Almost everything you eat was put there for somebody else's offspring. Milk is simply the one that admits it.

The second objection is that no other animal drinks the milk of another species.

Cats do. Hedgehogs do. Dogs would, given a minute alone with the jug.

Blue tits learned to open British milk bottles for the cream and taught each other the trick across the whole country.

Seagulls in California have been filmed stealing milk directly from nursing elephant seals.

No animal turns it down on principle. They only lack a bucket and a stool.

No other animal ferments a soybean, sets it with gypsum and presses it into a block either. Nobody calls tofu a crime against nature.

No other animal soaks oats in enzymes, adds rapeseed oil and a phosphate to stop it splitting, and sells it in a carton with a joke on the side.

Milk comes out of a cow, who made it from grass, in a field. It is ready when it arrives.

One of these drinks needed a factory, a chemist and a marketing department.

The other one is being accused of being unnatural.



Mike
 
They attacked lard. We got Crisco, cottonseed oil hardened with hydrogen, made from what the cotton gin threw away.

They attacked butter. We got margarine, out of the same vats as the soap, with the vitamins added back by law so it would pass for food.

They attacked dripping. We got chips fried in oil that breaks down into aldehydes, the compounds a laboratory buys to damage a cell on purpose.

They attacked whole milk. We got the skimmed, with the vitamins poured off in the cream and sold back to us separately.

They attacked the egg yolk. We got egg whites in a carton, with the choline, the vitamin D and every fat-soluble nutrient left in the bin.

They attacked sugar. We got aspartame, which keeps the craving running on an empty stomach and now carries a possible cancer grade from the WHO.

They attacked breast milk. We got formula built on vegetable oil, mixed with whatever water the mother had, and a generation of babies in the poorest countries died of it.

They attacked the stockpot. We got a cube of salt and palm fat with no bone, no marrow and no gelatine in it.

They attacked wool. We got polyester, which is oil, which keeps the sweat in, and which melted into the skin of sailors on HMS Sheffield.

They attacked leather. We got polyurethane shoes that crack in one winter and sit in landfill for 500.

Now they are attacking beef. We are getting pea protein with eighteen ingredients, a cartoon cow on the box, and a third of the iron.

The original came from a field and a kitchen. The replacement came from a refinery and a patent.

Not one of the originals has ever been improved on. Every one of them has been replaced.



Mike
 
Nobody profits from telling you the body rebuilds itself. So nobody tells you.

Your taste buds are new every 10 to 14 days. The tongue that read this sentence is a fortnight old.

Your gut lining is new every 3 to 5 days. The stomach that struggled with last week's dinner has already been demolished.

Your skin is new every 4 weeks. You have grown a whole fresh surface since the last time the bins went out.

Your white blood cells are new within days. Tonight's immune army was not on duty last week.

Your red blood cells are new every 120 days. Four months, and the entire fleet is scrapped and relaunched.

The fat in your cell walls is replaced too, slowly. Years of stored seed oil can be walked back out, one meal at a time.

Your liver regenerates without being asked. It holds no grudge about the bad years.

Your skeleton is rebuilt over roughly ten years. The bones you made in the worst years are not the bones you finish with.

Every one of those rebuilds is made out of what you ate.

Feed the site meat, fat, sunlight and sleep, and the crew builds you out of the good stuff.

Feed it sugar, seed oil and the sofa, and the crew builds with what it was given.

There is a version of you under construction right now, due for delivery next year.

The order was placed at breakfast.



Mike
 
Customer: "What's the best thing in here? Price no object."

Butcher: "Mince."

Customer: "I meant a cut."

Butcher: "So did I. Mince is the whole animal. Shoulder, shin, bits off the rib, the trim off the steaks you lot pay £30 for. Every muscle on the beast in one tray."

Customer: "It's the cheapest thing you sell."

Butcher: "Because people think of it as leftovers. It's the same cow as the fillet with the snobbery minced out."

Customer: "The fillet's tender, though."

Butcher: "The fillet's the one muscle on a cow that never worked a day. Tastes of it. Mince has got the shin in it, and the shin carried the cow."

Customer: "So nutritionally..."

Butcher: "More iron and more collagen than any steak, from the working bits. And the fat's already through it, so it bastes itself."

Customer: "What do you eat?"

Butcher: "Mince. Five nights a week. The ribeye's for when I've company to impress."

Customer: "And the fillet?"

Butcher: "I've not eaten one in twenty years. I sell them to people who want to spend money quietly."



Mike
 
Wat mensen denken dat bacon met hen doet, tegenover waar bacon eigenlijk van gemaakt is.

De angst:

- Nitratten, kanker
- Verzadigd vet, verstopte aderen
- Verwerkt, op dezelfde plank als sigaretten
- Varken, dus het moet zaadolie zijn
- Zout, bloeddruk
- Een schuldige traktatie, alleen op zaterdag

De plak:

- Varkensvlees, zout, rook
- Een paar milligram nitriet, grotendeels verdwenen tegen de tijd dat het gebakken is
- Ongeveer 40% verzadigd en 50% enkelvoudig onverzadigd vet
- Thiamine op niveaus die geen ander vlees bereikt
- B12, B6, niacine, selenium, zink
- Volledig eiwit, 15 g uit twee plakken
- Het enige eten op aarde dat het hele huis naar beneden laat komen

Het kankerverhaal loopt via nitriet, dan nitrosaminen, dan je darmen. Je mond maakt meer nitriet van een spinaziesalade dan een plak bevat, en de nitrosaminen waren een probleem uit de jaren 70, opgelost door het pekelen met vitamine C, dat sinds 1978 in de bacon zit. De pekeling blijft omdat het botulisme buiten houdt. Het "nitraatvrije" pak ernaast is gepekeld met selderij, wat nitraat is met een groente op het etiket.

Het groep 1-cijfer, voor wie voorbij de kop leest, gaat over één extra geval per honderd bij het eten ervan elke dag van je leven.

Het meervoudig onverzadigde aandeel beweegt mee met het voer: een tiende in een gerstgevoed Brits varken, dichter bij een vijfde in een maïs-en-soja Amerikaans exemplaar. Dat is het argument voor de boerderijwinkel. Het was nooit een argument voor het graan.

Het ding dat naar zondag ruikt was nooit het probleem. De olie waarin je het moest bakken, was dat wel.
 
Wat mensen denken dat bacon met hen doet, tegenover waar bacon eigenlijk van gemaakt is.

De angst:

- Nitratten, kanker
- Verzadigd vet, verstopte aderen
- Verwerkt, op dezelfde plank als sigaretten
- Varken, dus het moet zaadolie zijn
- Zout, bloeddruk
- Een schuldige traktatie, alleen op zaterdag

De plak:

- Varkensvlees, zout, rook
- Een paar milligram nitriet, grotendeels verdwenen tegen de tijd dat het gebakken is
- Ongeveer 40% verzadigd en 50% enkelvoudig onverzadigd vet
- Thiamine op niveaus die geen ander vlees bereikt
- B12, B6, niacine, selenium, zink
- Volledig eiwit, 15 g uit twee plakken
- Het enige eten op aarde dat het hele huis naar beneden laat komen

Het kankerverhaal loopt via nitriet, dan nitrosaminen, dan je darmen. Je mond maakt meer nitriet van een spinaziesalade dan een plak bevat, en de nitrosaminen waren een probleem uit de jaren 70, opgelost door het pekelen met vitamine C, dat sinds 1978 in de bacon zit. De pekeling blijft omdat het botulisme buiten houdt. Het "nitraatvrije" pak ernaast is gepekeld met selderij, wat nitraat is met een groente op het etiket.

Het groep 1-cijfer, voor wie voorbij de kop leest, gaat over één extra geval per honderd bij het eten ervan elke dag van je leven.

Het meervoudig onverzadigde aandeel beweegt mee met het voer: een tiende in een gerstgevoed Brits varken, dichter bij een vijfde in een maïs-en-soja Amerikaans exemplaar. Dat is het argument voor de boerderijwinkel. Het was nooit een argument voor het graan.

Het ding dat naar zondag ruikt was nooit het probleem. De olie waarin je het moest bakken, was dat wel.


Waarom eten joden en moslims geen varkensvlees?
Dat zal wel een rede hebben. Is er toch iets mis mee?
 
Things I did to my own body in my twenties, on purpose, that I now find genuinely horrifying:

- Paid extra for mince with the good part removed
- Drained the fat down the sink like I was getting rid of evidence
- Ate chicken voluntarily, several times a day, and called it a lifestyle
- Weighed rice raw, then cooked, then logged it
- Separated eggs and binned the yolk, the only part with anything in it
- Trimmed the fat off a steak and left it on the side of the plate
- Ate every three hours to stoke a metabolism that never asked
- Ate a banana before the gym, like that was what moved the bar
- Ate liver weekly for three years because the internet said I'd die without it
- Drank electrolyte sachets pulling a face, for cramps I didn't have
- Fried things in sunflower oil from a bottle with a heart on the label
- Ate a rice cake and called it a snack
- Blamed dairy for stomach aches that turned out to be pasteurisation
- Went scarlet every summer and blamed the sun

And all that time I thought I was the disciplined one, while the 20% mince sat on the bottom shelf, cheaper, waiting for me to grow up.



Mike
 
In 1893 a Norwegian scientist deliberately froze his ship into the Arctic ice, let it drift for three years, and lost not a single man to scurvy or anything else. Then he walked off it and spent nine months in a hole in the ground eating bear.

Fridtjof Nansen was thirty-two, a zoologist with a doctorate on the nervous system of a worm. His theory was that the polar current would carry a ship across the top of the world if the ship was built not to be crushed. He built one. He called it the Fram, took twelve men, and sailed into the pack.

For three years they lived in the dark and the cold with no fresh food arriving from anywhere. On every previous expedition that had meant scurvy, the disease that had killed more sailors than the sea. Nansen's crew had none. They shot polar bear and seal, and ate the meat fresh and barely cooked, as the Inuit did. The doctor on board had almost nothing to do.

In 1895 Nansen and one companion left the ship on skis to make for the Pole. They got further north than any human had been, turned back, and were caught by winter on an empty island. They built a hut of stones and walrus hide, and for nine months they ate bear meat and walrus blubber and nothing else. No vegetable, no grain, no fruit. They came out in the spring fatter than they went in.

Then they walked home.

Nansen went on to win the Nobel Peace Prize, and lived to 68.

Every schoolchild is taught that a diet without vegetables will rot you from the inside. Two men spent a winter underground on nothing but fat and meat and came out fit to walk across the Arctic, and that was 130 years ago.



Mike
 
The sun became dangerous in about 1950, and it took a factory to do it.

Two million years on the African plain, naked, on the equator, midday.

Roman legions marched from Spain to Syria in a tunic and sandals.

Polynesians crossed 3,000 miles of open Pacific in a canoe with nothing over their heads.

Irish navvies dug the railways of England shirtless through the 1840s.

Victorian cricketers stood in a field for 5 days in August.

Welsh hill farmers brought in the hay with their sleeves rolled up for 40 summers and died of something else.

Bondi, 1935. Thousands of fair-skinned Australians on the sand all day, and the only thing anyone rubbed in was coconut oil.

Melanoma that year was 1 in 1,500. A curiosity.

Then the fat changed.

Cottonseed oil, soybean oil, corn oil, sunflower oil. Pressed out of seeds by machinery that did not exist before 1900 and put in every tin, jar and fryer on earth by 1960.

Seed oil goes rancid. Leave a bottle open on the counter and it turns. Heat it and it turns faster. Ultraviolet light turns it fastest of all.

Rancidity is oxygen getting into the weak points of a fat molecule. Seed oil has two weak points on every molecule. Butter has none. Dripping has none.

Your skin is built out of the fat you eat, replaced every couple of years.

Sunlight lands on skin built from seed oil and the fat goes rancid inside you. The redness, the heat, the blistering, the peeling. That is rancid fat being cleared away by your immune system.

Sunburn is your skin going off like a bottle of sunflower oil left on a windowsill.

Melanoma today is 1 in 33.

The sun did the same thing to your skin that it did to your great-grandfather's. He was made of beef.



Mike
 
The British did not always start the day with cereal. They started it with meat, and the man who changed it was an American who believed sex was a sin.

In 1900 a British breakfast was bacon, eggs, kidneys, kippers and bread fried in dripping. The miners, the dockers and the mill girls went out on it. It was the breakfast of the Empire and had been since the 1700s, when the country started eating in the morning at all.

Then came John Harvey Kellogg. He ran a sanatorium in Michigan on the principle that meat inflamed the passions. His cure was bran, cold water and a flaked grain he invented to be as bland as possible. His brother put sugar on it and sold it. By 1922 it was in Britain. By the 1950s it was in every home.

The advertising was relentless. The cereal was the healthy start. The egg was the thing your doctor worried about. The bacon was the thing your heart could not take.

So the nation went from a plate of animal protein and fat to a bowl of sweetened grain, and then it went to work.

Look at the result. Two hours after a cereal breakfast the blood sugar has crashed and the hand is in the biscuit tin. Two hours after bacon and eggs the worker is still working.

The full English is still the thing the British eat when they are on holiday and allowed to enjoy themselves. The rest of the year they are told it is a treat.

The miners had it every day, and dug coal on it. A man who had never eaten a vegetable invented the alternative to keep you pure.



Mike
 
The plant-based plate looks clean because nobody stands in the field when the harvest comes.

Grow wheat and the combine goes through in July at seven miles an hour. Field mice, voles, leverets and skylark chicks go in at the front and come out the back.

Grow rice and the paddy is flooded, drained and sprayed. The frogs, fish and snakes that moved in with the water are left on the mud when it goes.

Grow oilseed rape and the field turns yellow in May. The bees that come for it take away the neonicotinoids the seed was dressed in.

Grow almonds and two million hives are trucked into one Californian valley every February. A third of the bees that go in do not come out.

Grow sugar cane and the field is set alight before the cutters go in. Everything living in it burns, or runs for the road and is hit there.

Grow soy and the savannah is bulldozed first. The anteaters, the maned wolves and the armadillos lose the ground they lived on, and the beans go into a drink with a leaf on the carton.

Grow palm oil and the forest is cleared for it. Borneo lost 100,000 orangutans in sixteen years so a biscuit could last longer on the shelf.

Grow potatoes and the crop is sprayed a dozen times a season. The soil underneath stops being a living thing full of worms and becomes a material the plant stands in.

Now the cow.

She stands in a field that has not seen a plough in living memory. Skylarks nest in the grass under her. Dung beetles work the pats. Hares sit in the tussocks. Nothing is sprayed, because nothing needs to be.

When her time comes, one animal dies, quickly, with a man standing beside her.

Pasture is the only crop in Britain that gets to keep its wildlife, and it is the one you were told to feel guilty about.



Mike
 
Vegans: "Oat milk is better for you and better for the planet."

Great point.

So instead of a cow turning grass into milk in a field down the road, we've developed a twelve-step industrial alternative.

Step one: plough a field. Pasture is never ploughed; an oat field is turned over, sprayed and emptied of everything living in it every single year.

Step two: spray the standing crop with glyphosate a fortnight before harvest so it dries on schedule.

Step three: ship the oats from wherever the contract was cheapest this year, Scandinavia, Canada, the Baltic, to a factory that is almost never in the country drinking the result.

Step four: mill the oats, stir them into water, and add enzymes to pre-digest the starch into sugar, which is why it tastes sweet and why a glass carries about 7g of carbohydrate and 1g of protein. Milk is the other way round.

Step five: spin out the bran and fibre, which is most of the oat, and sell it as pig feed.

Step six: look at what's left. 10% oat, 90% water, tastes of nothing.

Step seven: pour in rapeseed oil, from a crushing plant, because the oat has no fat and the coffee needs something to foam.

Step eight: add dipotassium phosphate so it doesn't curdle the moment it meets a hot drink.

Step nine: add calcium carbonate from a quarry, potassium iodide from a mine, vitamin D2 grown on irradiated fungus, and B12 brewed in a bacterial vat, most likely in China. Four continents, to put back what the cow put in for free.

Step ten: heat it to 140 degrees, homogenise it, and seal it in a six-layer carton of card, plastic and aluminium.

Step eleven: load the cartons onto lorries and drive 90% water up and down the motorway network.

Step twelve: print a picture of a field on the carton. Not the ploughed one.

The cow: stands in a field that has never seen a plough, eats grass no human can digest, and makes milk that already contains the fat, the protein, the calcium, the iodine and the B12 in the proportions a mammal is built for. The herd is inside 30 miles of your fridge. The bottle came in a van.

Better for the planet, though. Says so on the carton. Next to the field.



Mike
 
In 1804 Thomas Jefferson sent thirty-three men to walk off the edge of the known map and find out whether America went all the way across. They came back two years later having lost one man, and the reason the rest lived is written in the journals in a word no dietitian uses: fat.

The Corps of Discovery left St Louis in May, hauling a keelboat up the Missouri against the current, by rope, through mud to the waist. Nobody knew what was out there. The maps gave out at the Mandan villages. Beyond that was rumour: mountains that might be a day's walk across, rivers that might run to the Pacific, and animals the size of carts that nobody back east believed in.

The men ate like no men have eaten since. Nine pounds of meat a day each, when it could be got. Four deer for the party, or a buffalo, every single day. Clark wrote that they consumed an immensity of meat. And by the autumn of 1805, on the high plains, they had learned the thing the plains people had always known. The buffalo in October carries inches of yellow fat down its back, and the men stripped it off and ate it before they touched the lean. They roasted marrow bones in the embers and sucked them like sweets. Charbonneau stuffed buffalo gut with meat and kidney fat and Lewis, a man who did not hand out praise, called it one of the great dishes of the frontier. They rendered bear grease into kegs and carried it over the Rockies like gold.

Then came the winter on the Pacific. Fort Clatsop, rain for a hundred days, and the only game was elk, lean as rope after the mountains. The men lived on it and the journals turn dark: boils, bowel trouble, men laid flat with nothing left in them. The meat was plentiful. It was the fat that had gone.

In January a whale washed up on the shore. Lewis sent a party through the surf and over a headland to buy its blubber from the Clatsop people, and when it came back he wrote that providence had been kinder to them than to Jonah, since it had sent the whale to be eaten rather than the reverse. The men came back to life on it.

They crossed the Divide, found the river, saw the ocean, and walked home. One grave in 8,000 miles, three months in, a sergeant with a burst appendix. No scurvy in two years without a vegetable.

The greatest expedition in American history ran on buffalo fat, bear oil, marrow and whale blubber, and its captains knew exactly what was keeping their men on their feet.

Send the same thirty-three men out today with oats, lean turkey and a bag of lentils, and the only thing that reaches Oregon is the paperwork.



Mike
 
A pound of red meat a day stops the 3pm slump inside a week.

A pound of red meat a day puts an iron test back in range inside three months, after a decade of spinach failed to.

A pound of red meat a day ends the hunger between meals, because 100g of complete protein and a wedge of fat is the most satiating thing a human can swallow.

A pound of red meat a day builds muscle faster than any shake, because it arrives as the muscle it is going to become, creatine and carnosine included.

A pound of red meat a day is digested almost completely, leaves the gut quiet, and asks nothing of the pancreas.

A pound of red meat a day costs less than the supplements, the oat milk and the protein bars it replaces.

A pound of red meat a day came off a grass hill in the rain, from an animal that fed the soil while it stood there.

A pound of red meat a day is what a navvy ate in 1850 before he shifted 20 tons of earth, and it is what Walter Willett at Harvard wants cut to 7g, a mouthful, for the good of a planet he has never farmed.

A pound of red meat a day is the floor, on carnivore, on keto, on whatever your nutritionist calls it. Put it in the middle of the plate and let the rest of the meal fight for the edges.



Mike
 
Humans have run 229 separate long-term trials of what a person can live on, and the plant-only arm has never once been filled.

That is the count of hunter-gatherer societies in the ethnographic record, every climate on earth, desert to tundra to rainforest, each one a thousand-year experiment in eating whatever the ground offered. In 73% of them, more than half the food energy came from animals. In the Arctic it was nearly all of it. The ones with the richest plant life available still took a third of their calories from meat and fish.

The number of those 229 that lived without animal foods is zero.

Not low. Not rare. Zero, across every people who ever lived off the land directly, with no shop, no tablet and no fortified oat drink to fall back on. Wherever a human could get an animal, the human got the animal, because the alternative was the slow version of starving.

The first society to attempt the plant-only arm was founded in Leicester in 1944, by people with a grocer, and within a decade its members were presenting at nutrition conferences with sore tongues and numb feet.

Every diet humans have ever lived on was tested on humans first and named afterwards. This one was named first, and the test is still running, on volunteers, with the results coming in through their nerves.



Mike
 
In 1913 an Australian explorer's skin came off the soles of his feet in a single piece, and the likeliest culprit was the food every nose-to-tail carnivore is told to eat weekly.

December 1912, Antarctica. Douglas Mawson, Xavier Mertz and Belgrave Ninnis are mapping the coast by dog sledge, about 500km from their hut. On the 14th Ninnis drops into a crevasse with his sledge and team. Gone with him: the best dogs, the tent, and most of the food.

Mawson and Mertz turn back with six thin dogs and about ten days of rations for two men. The arithmetic is simple and terrible. They will eat the dogs.

They do, one at a time, over the following fortnight. The paws stewed. Every scrap used. The liver, the only tender part of a starving husky, is the bit they look forward to.

By the new year Mertz is ill. His gut gives way, the skin peels off his legs, and then the delirium arrives. He raves in German and bites the end off his own finger to prove to Mawson it isn't frostbitten. On 8 January 1913 he dies in the tent, about 160km from the hut.

Mawson walks on alone. His hair comes out in handfuls and skin lifts off his body. Then the soles of both feet come away, each as a complete layer, and he binds them back on with lanolin and socks and keeps walking.

He reaches the hut on 8 February. The relief ship had sailed that same day, a few hours before he got there. He spends another winter on the ice.

In 1969 two doctors went back through the diaries and named the likeliest culprit. Husky liver holds vitamin A at roughly thirty times the concentration of beef liver, and a hundred grams of it can carry a poisonous dose. Peeling skin, falling hair, a wrecked gut, a confused mind: it is the textbook picture of a man who has swallowed too much retinol.

Every carnivore forum has the same rule now. Liver is the multivitamin. Liver is non-negotiable. Eat it raw, eat it frozen, swallow it in capsules if you can't face it, weekly at minimum or you're doing it wrong.

Liver is a storage organ. It is where an animal banks its vitamin A, its copper and its iron, and how much is in there depends on the animal and what it ate. It tastes bitter, and your mouth argues with it every single time.

Three years of weekly liver did nothing for me that stopping didn't do better. Muscle, fat and dairy from a ruminant cover what I need.

Liver is optional. Feet are not.



Ben ook geen fan van lever. Of welk orgaanvlees dan ook.

Mike
 
In 1913 an Australian explorer's skin came off the soles of his feet in a single piece, and the likeliest culprit was the food every nose-to-tail carnivore is told to eat weekly.

December 1912, Antarctica. Douglas Mawson, Xavier Mertz and Belgrave Ninnis are mapping the coast by dog sledge, about 500km from their hut. On the 14th Ninnis drops into a crevasse with his sledge and team. Gone with him: the best dogs, the tent, and most of the food.

Mawson and Mertz turn back with six thin dogs and about ten days of rations for two men. The arithmetic is simple and terrible. They will eat the dogs.

They do, one at a time, over the following fortnight. The paws stewed. Every scrap used. The liver, the only tender part of a starving husky, is the bit they look forward to.

By the new year Mertz is ill. His gut gives way, the skin peels off his legs, and then the delirium arrives. He raves in German and bites the end off his own finger to prove to Mawson it isn't frostbitten. On 8 January 1913 he dies in the tent, about 160km from the hut.

Mawson walks on alone. His hair comes out in handfuls and skin lifts off his body. Then the soles of both feet come away, each as a complete layer, and he binds them back on with lanolin and socks and keeps walking.

He reaches the hut on 8 February. The relief ship had sailed that same day, a few hours before he got there. He spends another winter on the ice.

In 1969 two doctors went back through the diaries and named the likeliest culprit. Husky liver holds vitamin A at roughly thirty times the concentration of beef liver, and a hundred grams of it can carry a poisonous dose. Peeling skin, falling hair, a wrecked gut, a confused mind: it is the textbook picture of a man who has swallowed too much retinol.

Every carnivore forum has the same rule now. Liver is the multivitamin. Liver is non-negotiable. Eat it raw, eat it frozen, swallow it in capsules if you can't face it, weekly at minimum or you're doing it wrong.

Liver is a storage organ. It is where an animal banks its vitamin A, its copper and its iron, and how much is in there depends on the animal and what it ate. It tastes bitter, and your mouth argues with it every single time.

Three years of weekly liver did nothing for me that stopping didn't do better. Muscle, fat and dairy from a ruminant cover what I need.

Liver is optional. Feet are not.



Ben ook geen fan van lever. Of welk orgaanvlees dan ook.

Mike



 

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